Carbonara

Dry-roast the black peppercorns in a small frying pan over low heat, swirling until very fragrant (approximately 4–5 minutes). Cool then coarsely grind, preferably with a mortar and pestle, and set aside 2 g of the ground pepper.

Heat a pot with just enough water to cover the pasta. This minimal water approach concentrates the starch for better sauce emulsification.

Separate 4 egg yolks into a metal bowl, then whip in the Grana Padano and Pecorino Romano.

Add the 2 g of freshly ground coarse black pepper and whisk the mixture into a paste.

Place a long metal utensil, such as a ladle, into the pot and then place the metal bowl atop as a double boiler (the ladle prevents a seal from forming, allowing steam to escape). Carefully whisk until the color and density change, then set the bowl aside.

Add the pancetta to a cold casserole or small pan (without oil), set heat to medium-low, and cook until golden.

While the pancetta cooks, bring the water to a boil, lightly salt, and warm the serving dishes.

Once the pancetta is finished, add the spaghettoni to the boiling water and cook until very al dente (about 2 minutes less than package instructions).

After adding pasta to the water, elevate one side of the pancetta pan to separate the rendered fat from the cooked pancetta. Keep both in the pan.

Once the pasta is cooked, add it to the metal bowl with the egg and cheese mixture along with 2-4 spoonfuls of the pancetta fat.

Add about three-quarters of a ladle of pasta water and toss vigorously to emulsify. Add more pasta water as needed to achieve the desired creamy consistency.

Place the metal bowl back atop the pot of boiling water and toss briefly over the double boiler to fully emulsify. Add the pancetta.

Remove from heat and toss again.

Plate on the warmed dishes and top with Pecorino Romano and several pinches of the remaining freshly ground black pepper.